There
is our train engine resting in Chicago after the two day journey from
Los Angeles.
Here
I am in the wee small hours of January 28th 2019' earlier
I was talking about this train journey with one of my daughters and
because I was put in mind of it I am, once again, repeating a post of
my blog from eight years ago.
Here
goes:
We
are on a train and stopped in Albuquerque, New Mexico where the
temperature between the inside of the train and outside is vast. We
were out walking along the platform, looking at the array of Indian
trinkets, blankets and the like and as we were doing this it was over
ninety degrees Fahrenheit.
The
journey, so far, has been entertaining. The priority of time on this
train has taken a back seat to the attention to detail, the running
of the system and the pleasure of travel.
There
is no wi-fi on the train so I will write in bits over this journey
through America from Los Angeles to Chicago; unless anything
extraordinary happens between Chicago and New York I won't write
about that part of the journey as I've already written On
a Train in England in March, 2011.
The
first thing we heard last night when we got on was a message over the
speaker system from Chip the lounge car attendant telling us he was
delayed slightly getting his groceries and had a problem with his
fridge and asked us to give him a break and that he would be starting
shortly with a bill of fare which includes coffee, beer, pizza,
burgers and potato chips.
After
a little while he came on again to say he was open which meant that
everybody on the train went to Chip the lounge car attendant and
lined up; his little lounge car is like a mini Seven Eleven – maybe
about 30 feet long with passengers seats on either side – so you
can imagine the hustle and bustle.
On
the menu it said that they had 'freshly brewed' decaf coffee but when
I went there afterwards he told me they were out of decaf!!!
After
that we heard from 'Jackie in the Diner' – she was asking people if
they wanted to make dinner reservations; she would say 'this is
Jackie in the diner – would anybody wishing to book for dinner make
your reservations now.' This voice would come on at various intervals
asking people to come in for dinner, lunch or whatever.
Then
Chip from the lounge car would come on again telling us he was going
on a break so if anybody wanted anything they needed to hurry up and
come and get it.
Things
were swinging along and we were travelling then Jackie came on the
speaker system again and wanted to know if people could hear her as
the system didn't appear to be working. Chip from the lounge car came
on to say he could, in fact, hear her.
When
he said this a woman, sitting close by, used her mobile phone and
speaking quite loudly in a New York accent said 'This is Dolores from
Delaware; I need to speak to Mr Jefferson.'
This
sounded interesting but Jackie came on the speaker system again
saying 'I can't hear you at all, Chip; you're not coming through.'
Then
again 'This is Delores from Delaware! Can you put me through?'
Then
'This is Chip from the lounge car – I am back from my break; if you
want bagles or drinks now is the time to come.
Whilst
this was going on over the speaker system a ticket collector
interrupted all by saying he was coming around for tickets and 'don't
forget to sign them in the top left hand corner.'
Each
time he took a ticket from someone who hadn't signed it he would say
'I need you to put your autograph in the top left hand corner.'
Jackie
came on again 'This is Jackie in the diner – am I coming through?'
'I
can hear you, Jackie' said Chip from the lounge car.'
'This
is Delores from Delaware – is Mister Jefferson there?”
The
ticket inspector approached us puffing and blowing after climbing
some stairs 'those stairs are killing me' he said; we're on the top
deck.
'This
is Jackie from the diner; I will be coming around to take dinner
reservations, starting with the sleeping section and then couch.'
I
sat reflecting about my years in America knowing that they are
contemplating an all electric super duper rail system which will get
you from point A to point B faster than a speeding bullet and wishing
they wouldn't do it as it would spoil this lot.
The
food in the lounge car was ropey to say the least but the food in the
diner was excellent and reasonably priced.
There
are four seats at each table so you are forced to face the other two
people which more or less forces you to communicate with them.
On
the first evening at dinner we sat with a Navajo professor and his
wife; he was quite famous as he was the first Indian professor – I
don't know if he was the first in the state or the country but he
told us he had celebrated his 67th birthday recently by walking down
one side of the Grand Canyon, along the flat bit and up the other
side; he was a very fit looking 67 years of age and he told us he
does 10K runs and used to be a baseball pitcher. I don't know if he
was a major league pitcher or just played at college level as we
never got that far but they were getting out at Flagstaff, Arizona
the following morning at 4:30.
The
next morning at breakfast we met Tom and Jenny from Victorville
California; famous for the place where Roy Rogers used to live and
have his western museum; I remember his horse, trigger, nearly
stepping on me at the stage door after I saw Roy Rogers live at a
theatre in Birmingham, England. I have to say that as there are quite
a few Birminghams in America apart from the one in Alabama.
Tom
and Jenny were also an interesting couple having cycled the world, by
all accounts, and regular train travellers.
In
the Observation Car I met another Navajo Indian but this one lived on
the reservation. As we sat watching New Mexico flash by he pointed
out lots things about the area and showed me some black stones which
he said were from the top of 'that mountain' which exploded with the
help of the volcano hundreds of millions of years ago. He went on to
say that they used the black stones (he had a name for them which I
have forgotten) in their sweat lodges.
He
was going from Gallup, New Mexico, to Albuquerque to meet his son; he
was sending his son a message using the modern equivalent of the
smoke signal; his Blackberry.
He
said he was proud of his son as he took the decision to leave the
reservation and set up by himself 'abroad.' He said he had lived
'abroad' for a short time – abroad was anywhere off the
reservation.
Indeed
it is abroad as the reservations have their own
sovereignty.
Later
that day, Saturday, we had dinner with two people on their way back
to live in Chicago from Los Angeles – we wished them well on their
journey and they did the same for us.
Before
we met them for dinner – in the usual accidental way – a man two
seats in front of us was getting leery; he had been drinking all day
and his voice was sounding very horse.
Whilst
we were away he called everybody names and started shouting; someone
called the conductor who came and told him off; he sat in his seat
for a moment but when she went he started again. Then the same things
again but this time he was really screaming so the conductor, a young
woman, threw him into his chair, called the cops and they threw him
off the train and into gaol somewhere; we were oblivious to all this
as we were at dinner with our bicycle travellers.
Chip
in the lounge car came on the loud speaker as we pulled in to Fort
Madison, Iowa, to say that he was running out of food in the lounge
car; he was out of bagles, pizzas and most of the cheese and ham
sandwiches.
As
the train pulled out of Fort Madison the train suddenly stopped; we
had run over somebody. We were travelling at about 15 - 20 mph and
apparently the person was killed. We don't know anything about it at
the moment but within two or three minutes a cop car arrived and
scaled a six feet fence outside; then he was told where the body was
by some kids outside.
The
latest news is a few young guys tried to cross the tracks and the
last one was hit and killed by the train; there's no need to describe
what we know or what I saw but you know what train wheels are like;
the young guys were all in their twenties.
As
we sit here waiting to move a voice in the background is heard: 'This
is Delores from Delaware; I am just north of the train station in
Fort Madison, Iowa. Today a man was killed . . . .”
As
if oblivious to everything, whilst this was going on, another voice
was heard ' this is Chip in the lounge car – I'm just back from my
break.'
Now this a rail journey (and a half)! It’s hard to imagine the effect the tragedy had on the rest of the passengers and staff. So sad.
ReplyDeleteI found this interesting and entertaining. As I am confined to my house due to ill health it is nice to be entertained.
ReplyDeleteStrangers on a Train.
ReplyDeleteFunny thing is I had some experiences on that same train (LA to Chicago), but back in December of 2010 when my mother was failing from a stroke. I bought her an *Indian blanket at that Albuquerque, New Mexico train station. That ride is burned into my brain, as I wanted to get off that train at almost every stop and just roam, travel, go nomad.
ReplyDeleteI was actually with Ron Hunter outside of the Director's Guild a few months before, when my cellphone rang and I learned of my mother's stroke. My conversation with my brother was tense and later watching Ron's face filled with concern for me .. it all comes back after reading this story of yours.
Gonna help me write a few things. Oh the serendipity of it all .. I visit the post you have on Ronnie Christ .. I browse through your blog here, and voila! Some kind of inspiration hits me.
thank you Chris
Donald
Many thanks, Donald; I was only in Boston once, with Ron, in 1998 (I think) and met many of his friends. I put this post up again because of the response to the original one; all the best, Chris.
DeleteWow! Ron's 1998 visit was the time he visited a dear friend who was also my landlord in Somerville, MA. It is when we reconnected.
DeleteI went upstairs for something and when my friend went to introduce me to his friend visiting from Hollywood, Ron and I looked at each other and both said "WTF? What are you doing here?" LOL
I had lost touch with Ron after we all moved from NYC. We all moved so fast in the early days. It was hard to keep track of who knew who, what happened to whomever...
again, thanks for this.
You're welcome. Donald.
ReplyDelete